fingerboard protocol

theory behind protocols

re-test day

the max hang protocol

the repeater protocol

Pick at most 3 grips you want to train. I like half-crimp, middle two open and pinch. When selecting grips keep in mind that isometric training trains the grip roughly 20 degrees in either direction, so a half crimp grip will strengthen sloper strength and full crimp strength. A pinch grip is probably a good one to include because it gets the thumb into the action. For pinches I use what I like to call pinch blocks because these eliminate the compression effect you can get when training on fixed pinches. These are a 2x6 cut into 8 inch sections and then screwed together with an eye bolt to hang weight from. The width on the pinches can then range from 1.5", 3", and 4.5" (see video for a better explanation). I think the 3" one is best, thinking about the 20 degree training effect. choose middle two, primarily because this is a weak grip for me, but I also think it is the most universally used for pockets. It trains two thirds of the fingers for first three and half the fingers for monos. This highlights a general principal for climbing training which is to simplify and pick exercises that will work the largest range of climbing situations.

After taking two days off from climbing. Start with a 13 second hang from the grip at body weight this should give you a rough idea of how much weight to add. When selecting a hold it should be a hold that is large enough such that weight can be added but not so large that the grip changes (E.g. hanging from a handle bar is not a half crimp). The starting body weight hang should help in grip selection. In addition, I prefer 2-arm hangs because 1-arm hangs will over stress the shoulders.

Once a hold has been found that can be hung relatively easily with the particular grip for 13 seconds start adding weight resting about 5 minutes in between each hang attempt. Keep adding weight until you can't hang the hold for 13 seconds. Write this weight down, this will be the weight you'll use for your training. It may seem obvious but remember to include your body weight in the total weight hung.

An entire climbing day should be devoted to the determination of maximum weight and two rest days should be taken after determining the maximum weight. If it takes more than 5 attempts to reach your 1 rep max then chances are whatever you arrive at is probably not your 1 rep max, you can do more. Take two rest days and try again.